The Civil War and Eastport, ME

Welcome to Eastport, Maine, home of Shackford Head State Park and the easternmost city in the United States! Located on the Bay of Fundy, this quaint coastal town has all the charm you would expect from a small east coast city, but don’t let its size fool you- Eastport has some big time sightseeing destinations that make this city one of the coolest places to visit in Maine.

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The main reason that brought us to Eastport was Shackford Head State Park, because state parks are wonderful and I have a mighty need to see them all.

Shackford Head features an interconnected trail system that leads you through lush woods to a rocky headland, passing by beaches and protected coves along the way. From the overlook at the top of the headland you can see Cobscook Bay and parts of Canada. It is also a great park for wildlife viewing, particularly several species of birds including bald eagles!

You can stop at some of the beaches to swim if you want (and the weather permits); while it was much too cold for swimming when we were there, I was still super excited to get to touch the Atlantic Ocean for the first time.

And to make the park even cooler, it has some pretty awesome ties to history as well (keep reading for more info on that!).

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My first time touching the Atlantic Ocean!! 😀

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The Shackford Head Interconnected Trail System, 2 miles round trip

“The Shackford Head and Overlook Trails (1.2-mile roundtrip) provide fantastic views of Cobscook Bay and surrounding peninsulas. If you enjoy challenging terrain with additional overlooks, continue on the Ship Point Trail (an additional half-mile loop) and return to the parking lot via the Schooner Trail for a total of roughly 2 miles.” (Maine Trail Finder website)

So basically, in just two miles you can hike all of the trails in the park. Win!

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Things to Keep in Mind:

  • Be careful when exploring the beaches – tides fluctuate at more than 20′ and move in quickly.
  • During the spring and summer, keep an eye out for ticks, which carry Lyme disease. Check yourself for bites after your visit.
  • Swimming is permitted at all the beaches, but isn’t recommended at Cony Beach due to being the site of Civil War ship demolition (more info on that coming).
  • This park is not staffed by rangers, so take extra caution while hiking and exploring as there is no help nearby.
  • And definitely be cautious on high bluffs and cliffs. There are a lot of slick surfaces in this park.

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Boardwalks!

For a list of all the trails in Shackford Head State Park, visit the Maine Trail Finder website!


The thing that really sets Shackford Head apart from other state parks though is its ties to the Civil War (ah, the post title finally makes sense hehe).  In the early 1900s, five Civil War battleships were burned here at Cony Beach to salvage any usable brass and iron.

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We had to cross the barrier of squishy old seaweed swarmed by gnats in order to reach the alleged Civil War battleship remains. That is determination, y’all.

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Sea critters!

We had heard that some of the remains of the ships were still left on the beach, so naturally we had to investigate…

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We definitely found some interesting structures, but were they part of the old Civil War ships? I don’t know. It seems odd that any left over pieces would survive over 100 years of tides, weather, and visitors, but you never know…they did look an awful lot like ship pieces…

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But old Civil War ship remains or not, they were still fascinating to look at and formed some cool tide pools, whatever they might be.

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And Cony Beach itself is beautiful and worth seeing even if it may or may not contain a piece of Civil War history. East coast beaches are so different from the beaches back home in LA. And I love them.

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Even if those weird structures on the beach aren’t pieces of old battleships, Shackford Head still has Civil War historical sights to check out.

In the large grassy area across from the parking lot, there is a memorial for all the ships that were burned here at Cony Beach, as well as informational plaques with photographs:

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I mean, based on the photos, the things on the beach very well COULD be pieces of the ships. I like to think that they are. It’s amazing to think of all the things these battleships have seen and experienced over their nearly 200 year old existence, from the day they were built, through the Civil War, to their final resting place on a beach in Maine. A lot can happen in 200 years.

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Location: Off Route 190 in Eastport, close to downtown Eastport, ME. Turn onto Deep Cove Road, and travel 0.8 miles to the entrance of Shackford Head State Park (a gravel drive on your left just before the campus of the Maine State Marine Technology School).

Hours / Season: Open all year; 9:00 a.m. to sunset daily unless otherwise posted at the gate.

Fees (per person at time of publication): Adults 12 and older $4 (non-resident), $3 (Maine residents)

Seniors 65 and older $1 (non-resident), free (Maine residents)

Children 5 – 11 $1, Children under 5 free

For more information on Shackford Head State Park, visit the official website!

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The City of Eastport:

Shackford Head is obviously really cool, what with it’s Civil War history and beautiful views of the coast and all, but it’s not the only reason to visit Eastport. Here are a few more reasons to check out this small coastal town:

  • It’s the easternmost city in the US (the actual easternmost point is in West Quoddy Head State Park, and is just a rock out in the ocean)
  • Awesomely fresh and delicious seafood
  • Old Sow Whirlpool

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First let’s talk about the seafood (priorities). After spending the early part of the afternoon exploring Shackford Head, we went into town to warm up with some clam chowder! We found a great little restaurant right on the bay, and fresh clam chowder and hot tea were the perfect remedy for this cold day. Eating seafood right where it’s caught is the best. Period.

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Now let’s talk Old Sow. Old Sow is the biggest whirlpool in the western hemisphere, and the second largest in the world.

What is a whirlpool, you might ask? Here is a brief description from the Bay of Fundy website:

“This powerful whirlpool is formed when the rising tide passes both sides of Indian Island, takes a sharp right turn around the southern tip of Deer Island to flood the Western Passage.”

Basically, the currents push the water in a way that causes it to move in a circular motion, creating a large funnel leading to the ocean floor. Old Sow has clocked speeds of up to almost 7mph, which is pretty damn fast for ocean water to be spinning in a circle.

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We tried really hard to see this whirlpool. First we tried booking a harbor cruise, but it was cancelled cause the water was too rough. So then we tried to see it from the shore. I think I might have seen it, but it wasn’t very active that day and the photos look like a whole lotta nothing. To see what it looks like on a good day, do a Google search of “Old Sow Whirlpool”…it’s pretty impressive.

How can you view Old Sow?

“Old Sow is reported to be most active about 3 hours before high tide. This activity continues for about two hours and takes the form of a collection of small gyres, troughs, spouts and holes, and on the rare occasion will form one large funnel. This area, which has been reported to be as wide as 250 feet in diameter, can best be described as turbulent water. However, during spring tides (high water tide caused by a full or new moon) combined with high winds or a tidal surge will increase Old Sow’s activity causing more intense funnels and formations.” – Bay of Fundy website

The best views are from a boat (like the harbor cruise we tried to take), or from Deer Point in the Deer Island Campground, near the ferry landing at the south end of the island.

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Add in being the easternmost city in the whole country, and you’ve got one pretty awesome place to visit. For more info about all the great things to see and do in Eastport and to look for hotels, visit the Maine tourism website!


 

 

 

Visiting the Easternmost Point of the United States

Welcome to the town of Lubec, Maine, nestled on the shores of the Bay of Fundy, and home to the easternmost point in the Unites States!

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Lubec is indeed so far north and east that it is practically in Canada. You can see Canada across the bay, and the whole time we were there our cellphones kept jumping between international and domestic roaming. So if you visit Lubec, keep an eye on your phone, cause international roaming charges are the worst.

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The town itself is rather small. You won’t see many chain places here, but you will find lots of small-town charm. We arrived late in the evening, still jet-lagged after a two-day travel fiasco trying to get to Maine from Los Angeles, and totally starving. Our first stop? Dinner at Water Street Tavern!


This is definitely the best place to go for some of the freshest seafood in the whole country! My friend Joe ordered lobster, and so the chef went out and caught one in the bay and brought it to the table still alive to show off his catch before cooking it up.

That’s pretty fresh.

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Not pictured: I ordered the most amazing lobster mac and cheese I’ve ever eaten. You just can’t beat Maine when it comes to lobster.

Also not pictured: Joe wasn’t sure how to tackle a full lobster, so our server came out to help crack it open. In doing so, lobster juices flew everywhere…but mostly landed all over our friend Jim.

Not gonna lie… that’s kinda my favorite memory from our trip to Maine hehe.

Click here to check out the Water Street Tavern and Inn!

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Full of amazing lobster and completely exhausted, we headed to our hotel, Cohill’s Inn. For lodging, there isn’t a ton of options in Lubec. But even if there had been 100 hotels, I would still tell everyone to stay at family owned and operated Cohill’s Inn. It’s small (think only 9 rooms), but the rooms are quaint and delightful, and it’s located right on the waterfront. Plus the staff is super friendly, and they have a tasty complimentary continental breakfast served in the pub downstairs.

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Since we were there at the very end of their season we didn’t really get the full Cohill’s experience, but that’s ok since we were just passing through anyways. But it looks like a lovely place to stay during the summer season! Fresh food and craft beer in the pub, warm coffee out on the deck while watching for seals and bald eagles, bike riding along the bay… you know, basically an idyllic east coast summer getaway.

To check it out or make reservations, click here!

Cohill’s is located at 7 Water Street, Lubec, ME – 04652
207-733-4300

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So why Lubec? Because it is the closest town to the easternmost point in the United States! After a quick breakfast at the inn, we headed out to go find it…

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And where is the easternmost point? Well, officially, it is a rock just off the coast of Maine called Sail Rock. But you can’t exactly swim out there and take pictures on the rock.

So for tourism and visitation purposes, the easternmost point is located at West Quoddy Head State Park.

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This is the best State Park I have ever been to, no joke. It had the most stunning views, and such vibrant colors! Here’s how we explored Quoddy Head:

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Coastal Trail, 4 miles round trip

“The Coastal Trail (4-mile roundtrip) affords more challenging terrain (and spectacular ocean views), with some steep and rocky sections. This trail passes Gulliver’s Hole (a narrow chasm formed from the erosion of a vertical fault in the volcanic gabbro rock); High Ledge (a 150-foot-high bluff); and Green Point (a large ledge outcropping where hikers can reach the beach).” (maine.gov)

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There are five trail options at West Quoddy Head, but we picked this trail because it is a combination of most of the other trails and offers the best collection of what the park has to offer. Four of the park trails connect with each other, so you can more or less combine them in any way you want to get the experience you are looking for.

Click here for a list of all the trails in the park and a trail map!

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Keep in mind though, that when the trail descriptions mention bogs, they aren’t kidding. Be prepared for a muddy and soggy hike!

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One of the coolest parts? WE SAW ACTUAL BALD EAGLES.

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Joe was leading the hike, and when he went around a bend, there were two of them just chilling in the middle of the trail! Of course they flew away immediately, so this was the best picture I got, but man, what a cool thing to see! Talk about once in a lifetime experiences.

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The bogs were actually super cool too though, featuring sub-arctic and arctic plants rarely seen south of Canada. Plus you guys know how I feel about interpretive trails on boardwalks (I think they’re totally awesome, for any of my new Wanderers :D)

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And then of course there is the lighthouse itself, commissioned by Thomas Jefferson back in 1808. The light still shines (two white flashes every 15 seconds), visible from up to 15-18 miles out to sea. The 15 red and white stripes were added to the tower in 1858 to make the station more visible in snow and fog.

The tower is closed to visitors, but there is a cool museum and giftshop inside the house.

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Here are some tips to make your visit to Quoddy Head safe and fun (obtained from the official park website):

  • The Park is often wreathed in fog that forms when warm, moist air from the mainland meets masses of cold air over the surrounding waters. Fog and sea breezes can make for chilly conditions, even in the height of summer, so bring extra layers. Be prepared for low visibility and carry a park map with you when hiking trails.
  • Exercise caution and supervise children when walking on cliffside trails or by the shore. Tides can fluctuate more than 20 feet and flow in quickly.

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Don’t forget to take a photo at the official plaque marking the easternmost point in the United States!


Location: 973 South Lubec Rd, Lubec, ME 04652 (Four miles off Route 189 in Lubec).

Contact: May 15 through October 15: (207) 733-0911
Off season: (207) 941-4014

Hours / Season: Open 9:00 a.m. to sunset daily from May 15 to October 15. Visitors may continue to enjoy the park during the off season by parking outside the gate and walking in during these same hours. Please be aware that facilities are closed during the off season.

Fees (per person at time of publication): Adults 12 and older $4 (non-resident), $3 (Maine residents)

Seniors 65 and older $1 (non-resident), free (Maine residents)

Children 5 – 11 $1, Children under 5 free

For more info, visit the official West Quoddy Head State Park website!


 

 

Afternoon Tea at Jordan Pond House

If all your exploring in Acadia has left you hungry, stop in for some popovers at Jordan Pond House!

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Nestled right next to the lake, Jordan Pond House is an idyllic spot to warm up (or cool down) after adventuring around the park, or perhaps grab a romantic dinner.

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It has been serving its famous popovers to guests since the 1890s, making it a historic site of interest within the park.

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But foodies shall rejoice as well, because the food here is INCREDIBLE. The menu is full of mouth-watering locally sourced and seasonal food options, such as fresh Maine seafood and Maine blueberries. Yum!! Click here to view their whole menu.

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The famous popovers

The delicious popovers are served with Maine strawberry jam and butter. They may look huge, but these things are light, airy, and mostly hollow inside. And insanely addicting.

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This place gets very busy and the wait times can be horrendous, so you should definitely try to make a reservation. Click here to book online, or call (207)276-3316.

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If you are unable to get a reservation or decided to go spontaneously, the shortest waits for tables are before 11:30am or after 4pm.

Jordan Pond House is only open seasonally though, so be sure to check the website for current operating hours before you go.

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The Lobster & Crab Cakes, made with blistered corn and an oven-dried tomato and white bean salad, served with a lemon chive sauce. Totally amaze-balls.

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Pastries the size of my head… yes please!

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Lobster Stew made with fresh Beal’s lobster, butter, sherry, and cream. Just OMG. I could eat this everyday.

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An amazing meal served in a perfectly beautiful atmosphere… life doesn’t get much better than this!

P.S. the blueberry iced tea was delicious and refreshing. Trying foods and drinks made with blueberries is a must when in Maine!

LOBSTER + BLUEBERRIES = The taste of Maine.

For more information and to check operating hours, click here!


 

 

Hiking Acadia’s Precipice Trail

For all my fellow adventurous souls out there, this one is for you. If you’re like me and seek out the most brag-worthy trails in all of the national parks, look no further. In Acadia National Park, it’s the Precipice Trail.

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In fact, this hike is actually classified as a non-technical climb. Why? Because you are scaling the side of a rocky cliff via a series of ladders and iron railings.

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Precipice Trail to Orange & Black Trail, 2.5 miles round trip

“Iron rungs and ladders on exposed cliffs, very steep. Do not descend on Precipice Trail. Starts/ends at: Precipice Parking Area.” (NPS website)

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That description doesn’t even begin to describe the epicness that is the Precipice Trail. Easily the coolest hike I have ever done, this trail is definitely not for the faint of heart or physically unfit.

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If you are even kinda afraid of heights, skip this hike.

If you can’t climb a straight ladder (meaning straight up and down, no leaning), skip this hike.

There aren’t many hikes out there that require upper body strength, and this is one of them.

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Here are some things to consider for safety:

  • Make sure the weather reports are clear before starting. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS HIKE IN BAD WEATHER!!!
  • If it has been raining recently, the trail will be extremely slippery, including all of the rungs. Be sure to wear good shoes! And if in doubt, bring some gloves to help you grip the rungs.
  • Obey posted signs and follow the trail. Don’t attempt to hike back down the way you came up- continue following the Orange and Black Trail to get back to the parking area.

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Honestly, the scariest part of the trail was how slick it was from recent rain. One wrong step and you could fall off the cliff and die. And no, I’m not exaggerating. People have actually died on this trail. So hike smart, and stay safe. Grabbing that awesome Instagram photo won’t be worth it if you aren’t able to go home to post it.

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There are several points on this trail where you are literally scaling the wall of a cliff. No technical climbing skills required though- there are rungs and railings to help you along. It looks scarier than it is.

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The trailhead is located at the Precipice parking area, roughly halfway in between the Sieur de Monts park entrance and the Sand Beach Entrance Station. It’s easy to spot; you can’t miss it.

Once you are on the trail, just follow the blue paint! There are blue paint marks and arrows throughout the hike to keep you on the right path.

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This is hands down the coolest hike in Acadia! If weather permits and you are in good enough shape, you definitely don’t want to miss this one. The views are incredible, and the photo ops are endless.

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For a complete list of hiking options in Acadia, click here!